7ft or 15ft MJG

[rfgonzo]

I finally started poking some cans tonight. I usually use 7ft MJG initiators but decided to try the 15ft initiators. I thing i'm sold on the 15's. What do you like better?
http://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=5028&stc=1

[Rick_In_Tampa]

Depends on how far away from the firing module the effect is. I wired my boards that have slats with 3' initiators since the slats are on the boards. Then I used 15' for the boards that were wired into the firing mod itself. Then I used 10" initiators for slices and mines wired in series.

[Fulliautomatix]

I finally started poking some cans tonight. I usually use 7ft MJG initiators but decided to try the 15ft initiators. I thing i'm sold on the 15's. What do you like better?
5028

Wow, individually wiring each shell! Have you tried just cutting the wrapper and sliding the initiator between the cardboard disk and canister wall? Then a a bit of tape to close it back up. I've found that some canisters are actually fused that way from the factory, instead of being poked from the side.

[Robbro097]

I try and keep a few different length matchs on hand i hate to run just a few ft of scab so nice to have longer ones on hand

[rfgonzo]

Wow, individually wiring each shell! Have you tried just cutting the wrapper and sliding the initiator between the cardboard disk and canister wall? Then a a bit of tape to close it back up. I've found that some canisters are actually fused that way from the factory, instead of being poked from the side.

Yes I have done it both ways. I have even poked the can from the bottom disk. All three ways work good. I just like to poke next to the fuse going in.

[esgrillo]

When you look at the cost, you simply select the shortest that will work for you application. I get 7ft for my racks and 15ft for cakes. The 7ft ones have a very affordable cost per match compared to 10 or 15. 7ft is almost the same price as the 3ft version which is pretty limited in use IMO so I just get the 7ft.

[Birdman]

Rather than start a new post I thought maybe it would be best to post this question here as it sort of pertains....

I'm shooting a small show this weekend and the MJG's I ordered may not be here in time because they are hung up in the mail system somewhere. I have some short ematch that I received with my Chinese system but never used. I also have a bag of spent MJG's that I saved just in case I needed to run some scab wire unexpectedly. Well it appears that time may have come. Before I assume there would be no issues re-purposing the wire from the used MJG's to extend the short ematch I have, I figured I'd ask. BTW I'll be using a Cobra and not the Chinese system.

[Arclight]

Just make tight connections and insulate them with tape. Or use small wire nuts. You can check your work with a multimeter. Check them BEFORE you install them in your pyrotechnics. Here is the best splice to use:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsZvHrMIoNs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsZvHrMIoNs

[Birdman]

Thanks for confirming. I was going to use a blasters knot:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBiGL-utosQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBiGL-utosQ

I like your splice better and using some sort of insulator at the splice.

Thanks again!

[Mattp]

Personally ,, After last few years... I’ve decided to just go with the longer the better ... sure it cost a little more.. and may not always need a 15’ wire... but I’d rather have the length and not need it then the other way around.... if you buy a bunch... brings the cost considerably down too

[Arclight]

Blasting caps come with a little plastic sleeve that you an slip over this type of splice, so some people prefer it. I personally like the Western Union splice, but they all work. If you are attaching wires of much different sizes (i.e. 14ga from a firing line to 22ga on the e-match) then the wire nuts are the way to go.

Blasters used to use many electric caps in series and/or parallel, but they have mostly been replaced by a system called the "Handi Det" that lets you daisy-chain each hole that is loaded with explosives and only use one electric cap as the means to set it all off.

[N.E. Pyrotechnics]

We use a lot of sensors in industry that are made with 20 or 22 gauge wire. The quickest and most reliable method for replacing them on the shop floor is a little connector called a "butt splice". It's a small plastic sleeve, with a hollow aluminum core. Place the wires to be spliced into the connector, and compress with the required tool. You can get the tool and a container of butt splices for less than $15.00 at the local home improvement store. Make sure that you purchase the proper diameter for your wire guage. All of the MJG's that I have used have been 22 guage.

[Birdman]

I tested using the WU splice. I insulated with a piece of electrical tape and it fired just fine. It's a really small show for family fun and more experience under my belt, so this should do just fine for my purpose. My father has a multimeter and all sorts of wire nuts and butt splices but I'm not going to have time to get over there before the weekend.

Thanks for all of the advice!

[Salutecake]

Rather than start a new post I thought maybe it would be best to post this question here as it sort of pertains....

I'm shooting a small show this weekend and the MJG's I ordered may not be here in time because they are hung up in the mail system somewhere. I have some short ematch that I received with my Chinese system but never used. I also have a bag of spent MJG's that I saved just in case I needed to run some scab wire unexpectedly. Well it appears that time may have come. Before I assume there would be no issues re-purposing the wire from the used MJG's to extend the short ematch I have, I figured I'd ask. BTW I'll be using a Cobra and not the Chinese system.

Hey Birdman, just wondering if you have your FEL or not? The "regulated" ematch to me is so much better. I use it with my cobra for all my consumer stuff, and of course display. Seems to me, and I'm just a hobbyist, to burn hotter and a split/bit longer. The consumer ematch, well, for me, to get close to 100% I would have to poke or split the fuse, with a few items that' ok but to poke and split everything on a larger show, I don't have time for that. Almost worth just getting my FEL to get the better ematch. And you, from the Lehigh Valley have a good 1.3 supplier just down the road from you. Again I'm just a hobbyist, just my personal observation and experience.