Cake Rack

[jamisonlm3]

I've been thinking of an idea for a rack that would hold cakes to prevent them from falling over. This would take out the need of gluing them down with hot melt glue or construction adhesive and could easily be asjusted all the cakes that fit in it. Let me know of any inprovments you guys can suggest and I'll make changes and upload a revised version.

Right now, it's a 2x2ft piece of 5/8" plywood with 3" tall sided that will be glued and screwed to the bottom. On the top outsided edges, a piece of the same plywood 1" wide will also be glued and screwed. The clamps are made from 3/8" threaded rod and run through 1.5"x1/8" steel flat bar. A 3/8" wing nut hold it all together.

One set of clamps runs just above the plywood and clamps two sides of that cake. Another set run 90 degrees above the first set to clamp the last 4 sides. To adjust, just unscrew the wing nuts and slide the clamp over until it touches the side of the cake or cakes. Repeat for the other three sides. While it won't really clamp the cakes or cakes down, I think it will be more than enough to keep any from tipping over.

[tmwjr]

I don't know much but I think it looks ok. It might be a little small for some cakes. It would be a pain for me to have enough to fit all my cakes for a show.

I personally prefer to stake it and tape it. If I have to use boards I have 2x3s cut to about 6 inches and have a 6 inch upright coming from it. I'll screw or nail it to the board and tape the cake to it. I reuse them.

[Mattp]

very nice ingenuity.. a while ago there was a guy on here who made and patented a similar idea.. not sure what ever happened to that.. i do think this would work good for the smaller 200g cakes (the biggest tipping offenders).. and would be good for lighting one to a few at a time.. otherwise you would need to make alot of those jigs..and alot of the 500g bigger cakes are too big for a 2x2 board and dont have the same tip risk.. i do find when lighting multiple cakes like this a very fast and effective method is to just tape them together.. but yes for what is is.. i think it looks great and will work just fine as is

[pyroboom]

So this design is just for 1 cake? Not sure if it would work because when you tighten the wingnuts wouldn't the plates just fold in and you won't be able to make it tight? maybe if the rod is sitting on the rail it may tighten, but the L base wouldn't work. I think you need more a J channel instead of an L channel for the plates. Not sure on this one, seems like a lot of work for just 1 cake. Then you have a little awkwardness getting the to the fuse. Perhaps make 1 and see how it turns out. I'd almost use these instead:

https://www.rockler.com/17-piece-universal-t-track-kit

This way you could use just a piece of 3/4" plywood and then router/dado for the T-track. You have a board with a train track on it. I know this is half-baked and I can explain more later. My method does not have a 4-way secure method, it's only 2, that's the downside.

[jamisonlm3]

Right now, this is just an idea. 2x2ft is what felt easy to work with in my mind. Making them to whaterever size needed wouldn't be an issue. I'm not thinking of using this for shows. I mainly want a way of keep cakes from tipping over. Recently, got my hands on a number of 200g cakes and wanted something to secure them without having to glue them down. I also wanted something that could be adjustable for a single cake or multiple cakes. The cake in the first post was a single 16 shot 200g cake. The attached picture below is 9 of those same cakes.

Mattp, you're right about those 200g cakes. People thinking fireworks are going to be good based on how much they weigh in the hand is nothing new, but many of those 200g cake have a good bit of concrete in them to lower the center of gravity.

pyroboom, I think spending all that money on track, hardware and knobs will get expensive fast. That'd make for a nice jig for a table saw or drill press, but I'm trying to keep it as simple and cheap as possible. I'm not too worried about them not tightening. When you do, that L bracket will want to lift out. The bottom pair of clamps sit on the plywood. There will only be so much they can move. The top pair will do the same, but I'm planning on adding spacers behind the L brackets. Lock nuts could be screwed on in reverse and would also help.

I'm also thinking of making a sort of reverse french cleat system or a lip on the L bracket that will fit into a dado on the back of that 1" strip. I'm leaning on the reverse french cleat.

[Rick_In_Tampa]

Okay... To play devil's advocate for a second....

Why would your rack system be more secure than me wrapping those same 9 cakes with an $.89 roll of duct tape?

[DavidthePyro]

I have a simple but effective setup for this situation. Trace the cake, drill 4 holes, drive dowel rod through, for extra safety, wrap twine around the dowels, but something flame resistant. Leave them a few inches long. Then when you get it out to the site, pound each one down with a hammer and extra piece of dowel (use the extra piece of dowel like a punch)then you just label under each cake the dimensions between the holes you drill for future ease of setup. This anchors everything pretty well in my experience. Of course, most of the time I still go the ol glue 'em to a board setup.

[DavidthePyro]

I actually used two of my boards to build scaffolding to paint, I'll see if I can find pics, so I leave it all fastened to the 2?4 frame and then load it up. Its heavy and doesn't want to go anywhere. If I find it necessary. It's just a few screws to pop out and the boards come off the frame.

[DavidthePyro]

3852


Heres my launch board scaffolding, hahaha

[Kenny East]

Interesting idea, though a bucket or box of sand works well also. Main concern with the design is the threaded rod.... That stuff usually rusts quick when exposed to all the fallout from cakes.

Elastic bands wrapped in nomex or kevlar would give you flexibility of holding various size and shapes of cakes. Without the rusting and setup time of the threaded rod and wing nuts.

I've considered a similar idea, with the exception that I wanted to use larger angle shaped aluminum extrusion pieces.... And be able to angle and anchor cakes into a box. Look forward to seeing further development of this idea.

[jamisonlm3]

Rick_In_Tampa, on hard ground, probably not much and certainly not as cheap as duct tape. My rack design does have the benefit of being heavier and wider than only the taped cakes themselves.

DavidthePyro, looks like that boards and some plenty of use! Once that construction adhesive dries, it's tough stuff! It makes me want to use the cheapest OSB I can find and toss the whole thing out afterwards.

I like your idea with the dowels and it got me thinking. Sheets of plywood could be cut with a grid pattern of holes. The plywood and grid's spacing could be whatever size is needed. The holes themselves would have a tree-nut on the other side.

I think 1/4" threaded rod would be a little on the thin side, but would work. I think 5/16" or 3/8" rod would work better. The rod would be threaded into the tree-nut and used to secure the cake.

I'm really starting to like this idea. It spreads the cakes out and won't let them tip over. It also means you won't have to glue them down. I attached two pictures of a model I threw together.

Kenny East, you're right about the rusting part. The tops of my threaded rod racks are starting to develop some nice rust. Since it's only the 1" or so ends of the rod being used, I think keeping it coated with a lubricant like WD40 would minimize problems.

[joewad]

And you will lift it with what?

[DavidthePyro]

Peg board is another option, if the holes happen to be convenient spaces. But the dowel rod doesn't have to be that big, especially if tying off around the cakes.

[Deanbc]

Here’s how I set out my cakes. I use 1/2 inch 4x8 sheets of plywood cut lengthwise to create 2 2x8 pieces. I lay out my cakes securing them down with 4 inch Gorilla Tape on two sides. I‘ve never had a cake tip over or even move for that matter. I coat the plywood sheets with several coats of gloss polyurethane and the Gorilla tape sticks really well to this surface. When we are done, it’s easy to pull the cakes off the plywood boards. We use the plywood boards over and over again each year. Quick, simple and inexpensive. I would rather invest my money in Mortar racks and single shot racks for comets and mines. You can buy 4 inch Gorilla tape ar either Home Depot, Menards or Lowe?s depending on your location.

[jamisonlm3]

DavidthePyro, I would think peg board would a bit on the thin side. That stuff is only 1/4" thick and made out of the same thing compressed hardboard is, isn't it?

Deanbc, do you fold over your tape to make a loop? Can you link that tape? Would carpet tape work?

[joewad]

T Rex tape I have found to be just as good and around $1 cheaper per roll.

[Bung]

I use these:

http://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3864&stc=1

Cakes are secured by cable ties as seen. Marine ply - light and very strong.

[DavidthePyro]

Pegboard is indeed thin and weak. You can always use it as a template over plywood. I wouldn't use it alone for sure. The other thing to consider is weight. I usually glue my cakes a few days before, then transport and then fuse on the site. However, if staking through with some sort of rod, you could set your cakes, mark the spots, and then configure on site. That may help with weight. I've used a heavy duty mechanics creeper(called "the bone") to transport from my vehicle to the site in the past, I've also had help moving them. I believe last year I just carried them with some help. I agree with Deanbc, unless you can multi purpose your boards, investing a lot would be more effective in mortar racks. I do the 2 foot by 8 foot method, with rows behind alternating between 2 foot by 4 foot boards and fan/rapid cakes.

[JoSlicknuts]

There is a fireworks store in Ashwaubenon that sells an item called "brace yourself." The idea looks good. Looks like it would work for all size cakes.

[Deanbc]

I don’t form a loop. I use a piece about 5-6 inches long. Tape it to the side of the cake, form a right angle and press the tapa down on the plywood board. I tape 2 sides of the cake. It won?t go anywhere.

[jamisonlm3]

Bung, a guy I help has something similar for cakes. They're basically a long box with no bottom and two spacers evenly spaced. They're roughly 3ft by 1ft and ~10" tall. The cakes sit in one of three spaces. There's not a chance for them to tip over because there's only 3-4" of space on each side.

DavidthePyro, maybe I can drill and tap holes in the same grid pattern in my plywood? Threaded wood is actually surprisingly strong. The threaded rod would simply screw into these holes and should be more than enough to keep a cake from tipping with tape or bailing wire. It wouldn't be as good as a tree-nut, but all I have are weld nuts like the ones I used on my racks. I'd have to glue them in a countersunk hole for them to work. It's tempting though.

Deanbc, okay, I understand you now. You really do tape them down. I can see that tape holding them well, especially with that poly on it as long as the plywood isn't really dirty. I bet it makes cleaning them up pretty easy.

[TNtwister]

Overthinking.

[Bung]

Bung, a guy I help has something similar for cakes. They're basically a long box with no bottom and two spacers evenly spaced. They're roughly 3ft by 1ft and ~10" tall. The cakes sit in one of three spaces. There's not a chance for them to tip over because there's only 3-4" of space on each side.

DavidthePyro, maybe I can drill and tap holes in the same grid pattern in my plywood? Threaded wood is actually surprisingly strong. The threaded rod would simply screw into these holes and should be more than enough to keep a cake from tipping with tape or bailing wire. It wouldn't be as good as a tree-nut, but all I have are weld nuts like the ones I used on my racks. I'd have to glue them in a countersunk hole for them to work. It's tempting though.

Deanbc, okay, I understand you now. You really do tape them down. I can see that tape holding them well, especially with that poly on it as long as the plywood isn't really dirty. I bet it makes cleaning them up pretty easy.

We have wooden bases in ours to protect the bottom of cakes from getting damp or wet as bungs can soften from absorbing moisture and effect the burst height of the projectiles. Also we can simply pick the cake boxes up. Makes site clear up quicker.
More often than not, on smaller shows, we bag n stake.

[jamisonlm3]

Bung, the show those boxes are used with is one where we're lucky to have a hard surface to shoot off of. We do bag the cakes if we're expecting rain or if there's a chance it could rain. Do you cut the zip ties and lay the cakes on their side? Looks like the boxes would stack nicely in the truck.

[Bung]

Bung, the show those boxes are used with is one where we're lucky to have a hard surface to shoot off of. We do bag the cakes if we're expecting rain or if there's a chance it could rain. Do you cut the zip ties and lay the cakes on their side? Looks like the boxes would stack nicely in the truck.

I usually remove the cable ties and return spent cakes to the pyro boxes at the truck. Sometimes though, if it is chucking it down with rain, I just stack them as they are at the back of the truck with debris sacks so they can be easily taken back out by the cleaners - usually sturdy enough not to fall over. Wont catch me clearing out trucks, that is for the warehouse staff. :)
Boxes stack good though.

[PyroJoeNEPA]

Another way to skin the cat---a friend show me this several years ago: If you use cut sheets of plywood--size determined by how good your back is---and lay the cakes out on the plywood: cut the tops off to expose the tubes. Run a 2" drywall screw half way down on two opposite sides of the cakes. Twist a piece of steel wire [like you use to hang the grid for drop ceilings] to one screw. Run it over the top of the cake in the middle--between the tubes--and down the other side. Twist it off on the other screw. Easy setup and tear down. No glue or tape to fuss with and the boards can be reused over and over...just relocate the screws to fit the cakes you are using. Works with all size cakes, square, multi side oddballs, fans & zippers.
I don't have a picture to show you--but if it isn't clear I can do a mock up to show anyone that can't picture it.

[Bazerk]

Liquid nails and pallets. Glue them to the pallets and then carry the pallets to the launch site. Solid as a rock.

[jamisonlm3]

PyroJoeNEPA, that sounds like a pretty good way of strapping the cakes down. With smaller cakes where the tubes are glued to one another, you could go over the top between where the radius of the two meet. You wouldn't have to worry about shooting your wire. On larger cakes and ones with spacing, you could cut down the side of the cake and go through the cake, in between the tubes, to the other screw. If you have an impact driver, that would seem to be a fast way of securing your cake very well.

[brian_peterson]

Ok I have used the same peg boards for 9 years with no signs of major wear. I have tried many systems. THIS IS THE BEST!

Buy 4' x 4' beg board. Create a small under structure using pine strips (see photo) to give it more strength because peg board is week. Think of it as a mini pallet.

Then buy large lawn staples and bend the bottom tips out. You will want to build a small jig to bend the bottoms.

Then place your cakes, and use two large lawn staples. Use several rounds of uhaul tape. The cakes are now stable. Things are pretty light. Easy to store the boards. CHEAP. Easy to clean up and put away.

The staples will not come out because the ends are bent.


See photos.

[brian_peterson]

3872


Just a few more pics to show off. Bonus if the ground is wet the cake are off the ground. Use a small tarp under the peg board...Then use the thin painters plastic less than .7 mil. Once you have the tarp under and the plastic over the fireworks... You are water proof without creating a greenhouse effect. You can shoot through this plastic if you have a firing system.

3873

[DavidthePyro]

Brian, you have a really nice variation on what I was talking about. Seems you're onto something there. I really like your setup, thanks for adding, I think you've got the right idea and I will reference your post when it comes to creating some new boards myself. If it ain't broke dont fix it is true, but I'm always thinking of ways to innovate

[jamisonlm3]

Alright guys, here it is. If I ever make anymore, I'll make them differently. For one, the grid won't be 2" by 2". Most likely, I'll be 4" next time.

The picture below includes shot cakes that I pulled out of a trashcan that sits outside. I haven't emptied it yet so it let me put actual cakes on the board as an example. The threaded rod was marked and cut on a portable bandsaw clamped in a bench vise.

I think I might make them shorter. I cut them to 7.5" thinking about the height of 500g cakes, but I think 6" should be fine. That'd give me 20 of them from a piece of threaded rod. I rounded over the cut edges of the rods with a worn flap disc and angle grinder clamped in a vise outside. I might taper them slightly, but they screw and unscrew from the board easily.

I doubt this would be of use for anyone doing a large shows, but for the few cakes I shoot, It'll be more than enough to keep them from tipping. Cakes can be secured with whatever you have on hand. I plan on using bailing wire.

[DavidthePyro]

Looks good! Let us know how it goes for you!