Just arrived from Romania

[displayfireworks1]

These are pictures of the FireTEK Compact model. Here are some preview pictures of coming events for December 2015
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http://pyrotalk.com/wp-photos/wp-content/gallery/united-states-pennsylvania/s1020010-2ce28c280f4e214423de261953a682d178d273a5.jpg
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http://pyrotalk.com/wp-photos/wp-content/gallery/united-states-pennsylvania/s1020011-8730e6dc8c18ff2387b5661ffe8c411f6a77c900.jpg
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http://pyrotalk.com/wp-photos/wp-content/gallery/united-states-pennsylvania/s1020012-1aefed12c24dbe6800abcbbfa18e10d07df47cac.jpg
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http://pyrotalk.com/wp-photos/wp-content/gallery/united-states-pennsylvania/s1020013-b392a807b01da147bcee7f0e1dc71806866e0a08.jpg
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http://pyrotalk.com/wp-photos/wp-content/gallery/united-states-pennsylvania/s1020015-6495bf256654d8230edad8a77da023345767f8e4.jpg

[PyroJoeNEPA]

It looks like a really nice little system! I looked at their web site but there was no pricing info on it. The big question in every ones mind I'm sure will be what the cost is. Using the Cat5 cables is a very inexpensive way to cable things up. They can be bought very reasonably--or you can get a 500 ft roll & put your own ends on. Not a big deal replacement cost wise when a cable gets burned in the field compared to the other types of data cables being used today.

[displayfireworks1]

I believe the website will be up and running fully the first week in December. Hence the video release delay on my one video. CAT5 cable will work although he is recommending CAT6 . I believe CAT6 is more suited to outdoor use and resistance to fire because of the thickness of the wire wrap. I am just starting to learn about CAT6 myself.
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http://cdn3.howtogeek.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/twist-comparison.png.pagespeed.ce.YrpF1nh8Tn.png

[PyroJoeNEPA]

Typically Cat5 & Cat5e are 24-26ga wire whereas Cat6 is 22-24ga. Big difference in the two is the Cat6 is used for higher speed ethernet connections--up to 10Gbps compared to 1Gbps for the Cat5. All your new networks are using Cat6. I used a lot of Cat5 & 5e when I was still in the Audio/Video business to convert video signal from computer/video switchers to the projectors via a "HD15 to Cat5 converter".
I don't recall ever seeing anything about major differences in the outer jacket--or any fireproof characteristics. They all were offered with an optional shield [internal drain wire] for high RF interference applications.
I have lots of the Cat5 stuff left from when I retired--boxes & cut pieces--if anyone wants some to experiment with, let me know.

[displayfireworks1]

The 24 AWG wire is something to look for I Believe. i seen and unfortunate purchased some bony looking CAT5 cable. Not sure if it is with all cables but there is premium grade CAT6 cable out there. When the time comes i am going to experiment with 50 ft. cables. I believe you can take one of the Ethernet cables and install a splitter connector and run two rails from one port out of the module on this system. We are mixing wires , wireless and I believe this small unit may also have GPS capabilities. The remote on this compact model looks like the same remote for the larger unit.

[PGH_Pyro]

nice and sleek looking

[fireTEK]

The 24 AWG wire is something to look for I Believe. i seen and unfortunate purchased some bony looking CAT5 cable. Not sure if it is with all cables but there is premium grade CAT6 cable out there. When the time comes i am going to experiment with 50 ft. cables. I believe you can take one of the Ethernet cables and install a splitter connector and run two rails from one port out of the module on this system. We are mixing wires , wireless and I believe this small unit may also have GPS capabilities. The remote on this compact model looks like the same remote for the larger unit.


You can use normal RJ45 splitter to split a rail in up to 5 or even more, the last once can be on up to 300ft from the module. That small module it has GPS built. The FTM-99S remote it is the same for the FTH-48S modules (standard version) and also has a GPS module built in.

Even it is small, it can be used as it is (without a remote available) operated using: buttons on it, computer software via USB, Smartphone via Bluetooth, other firing system via External trigger, Time trigger using GPS or synchronized with the music using Time code input. You can combine compact and standard version firing modules in the same network and control them from the same remote.

All the communications are bidirectional so you will have the same information on the remote screen like you have it on the module. Communication stability, igniters used in scripts vs connected igniters, battery low levels and other critical errors are detected in real time and will be displayed in one screen soon they occur without requiring an user intervention to start a test.

[displayfireworks1]

From the youtube video I posted of the FireTEK I can see it is generating conversation and curiosity. I will try to at least do some basic video of this compact model I have for people to see. Even if the video is unlisted for the pyrotalk forums. The compact model I have is probably more appropriate for the advancing fireworks hobbyist. I am still going through the learning curve with the system and trying to find time to experiment. Let me see if I can find some time this weekend to video a closer look at the compact model.

[displayfireworks1]

Here is a brief unlisted video on the Compact FireTEK model. As you will see you need a portable power source for the module. I used my old motorcycle battery for the power supply. You will see on the module display it is running at 11.2 volts. This is less than the required 12 to 30 volt input. Plus I challenged further by running 50 foot CAT6 cable and 25 foot CAT6 cable. This is why the electric match indicator did not show excellent conductivity. Ideally I should have used 24 volt power supply. I also have a Dead Man Switch I did not use. I wanted to at least get some video up today for people to see the Compact System. The are still many things left to show on this model. If you have questions please post them, I know FireTEK monitors the forums and should answer them. Remember there is at least a 7 hour plus (ahead) time difference between United States and Romania.
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unlisted

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XSGr38EWHg

[displayfireworks1]

There is a way to use your Smart Phone and run this system. I know this is in another language but you can see some of how this works. It looks like it was just posted a few days ago.It appears he is also using the Compact unit.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43UauCJivAU

[displayfireworks1]

Just to let everyone know I am still working with the Compact FireTEK system I am posting this unlisted video. I am going to try to use these two batteries for a portable power supply. It would be great to find a nice plastic case to hold them.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86RypXJt5fk
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If anyone is curious about this type of battery

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2QwntIO4Mk

[Tropmoore75]

It's a good idea .... But why not use something like 2-12v Sla batteries. They weigh less, the charger is super cheap and it's not heavy like these 2 batteries. The Sla type batteries will fit inside of a seahorse style case. The overall size of these batteries would be a huge deterrence in buying them. Just my 2 cents. The Sla batteries can be found in expensively at batteries plus, or from remotefiringsystems.com. Hell, you can use a 20v Dewalt (or equivalent.) drill battery to run that system. In my opinion the system is small and compact, who wants to carry around a shitton of weight in bulky batteries. I have a few spark fire systems I run 24 volts with. I can fire all the matches in parallel that I could ever want and don't see why the average customer/hobbiest would want something this bulky. I think you are taking the wrong route with the batteries. Novel idea but not practical.

[displayfireworks1]

I believe a SLA Battery is an AGM battery also. I am using these for a few reasons, I can use these batteries off season for my electric start mower, I can use my current one amp battery charger, they were shipped for free at $16.00 each. I believe this system may need more juice than a Sparkfire system, there is potentially a long CAT5 or CAT6 cable the current has to run through. There is a way to split the cable and run even more rails. This system may need more juice than you think. Are there better battery solutions, sure LiPro batteries etc to make 24 volt. I just picked a cheap and easy solution. I did not necessarily pick the absolute correct decision. I don't have secondary use for a smaller SLA Battery. I am still experimenting with this system. There is time for more battery decisions down the road.

[Tropmoore75]

Sounds good Dave, I was just thinking for the hobbiests out there that need to have their stuff neat, and 2 bulky batteries isn't the answer for me, 16 is killer for a battery and you have multi-uses for it so that's great. The spark fire will fire 20 matches in series at 24v, I've done it. Not sure about the firetek, but I know mine will. I don't think the firetek is even designed to do that. Maybe Stephan or whatever his name is would be able to answer how many matches it will fire in series. I don't believe I saw anywhere in his documentation that lists how many parallel and series matches one que will fire. I'd assume it's pretty high. Hopefully he'll answer it. Both systems look good. Price is my only downfall. I've already invested too much into Cobras and spark fires. But on a closing note, I don't think the system would have one problem with 24v out of an SLA.

[fireTEK]

Dave... that 2 batteries are too big considering the weight and volume... they are 12V @12Ah... if you want to use SLA it is enough 12V @ 1.2Ah ones which are 10 times smaller.
But I recommend lipo batteries 6S like this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20962__Turnigy_1300mAh_6S_25C_Lipo_Pack_450_heli copter_HK_Trex_Rave_E4_etc_.html

Depending on the standby you need, from one of this battery you can power up to 5 modules. If you need more standby time you can use 3000mAh, 5000mAh or even more. Also you will need to buy a charger for 6S batteries.

[displayfireworks1]

On the Lipo batteries do you recommend 12 volt or 24 volt? If I am going to need more than 12 volts how would a 22.2 volt Lipo battery be? Or is one 12 volt Lipo good enough ?
You say one small SLA at 12 volt 1.2 AH will be enough to run the system without a power issue? Or is it best to run two 12 volt SLA to make 24 volt?
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When I look at the Lipo battery, it appears I will have to cut the battery connector to splice in the adapter. That may effect the charger connectors. I don't know. The SLA battery may be the way to go.

[displayfireworks1]

Here is a brand I know from buying motorcycle batteries. Do you recommend one or two? 12 volt or 24 volt?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yuasa-NP1-2-12ALT1-12-Volt-1-2-Ah-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-/130649688437?hash=item1e6b540975:g:1-sAAOxyoVZTHxcx

[fireTEK]

On the Lipo batteries do you recommend 12 volt or 24 volt? If I am going to need more than 12 volts how would a 22.2 volt Lipo battery be? Or is one 12 volt Lipo good enough ?
You say one small SLA at 12 volt 1.2 AH will be enough to run the system without a power issue? Or is it best to run two 12 volt SLA to make 24 volt?
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When I look at the Lipo battery, it appears I will have to cut the battery connector to splice in the adapter. That may effect the charger connectors. I don't know. The SLA battery may be the way to go.

The module can be powered from an external power source form 12 to 30V... so it doesn't meter if it is 12, 18, 23 or 28V. An higher voltage means the maximum power can be delivered on longer cables or you can connect more igniters in series. A 12V battery it is OK for a cable up to 30ft... with a 24V battery you can use cables up to 300ft. As you may know the firing module has built in a real time current monitor to adjust the pulse duration until the igniter is fired or the maximum set time is reach.

I recommend 24V batteries (2*12V SLA or 6s/7s Lipo).

[fireTEK]

Here is a brand I know from buying motorcycle batteries. Do you recommend one or two? 12 volt or 24 volt?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yuasa-NP1-2-12ALT1-12-Volt-1-2-Ah-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-/130649688437?hash=item1e6b540975:g:1-sAAOxyoVZTHxcx

Buy 2 and connect them in series to have 24V.

[displayfireworks1]

I ordered two and a charger. I would rather run it at 24 volt to have more power than needed. That comment you made about the pulse duration. Last we talked I believe you said your system can adjust the voltage duration for an electric match or Talon (Consumer Igniter) automatically. There is no need to make adjustments. That is impressive.
To split the CAT6 cable , will RJ45 CAT 5 6 LAN Ethernet Splitter be proper?
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http://cdn1.tmart.hk/prodimgs_v2/C/C005/0/C0050/RJ45-Cat-5-6-Ethernet-Splitter-Connector-Adapter_320x320.jpg

[Westpapyro]

I just bought some digital gauges that show voltage from 1 to 30 volts, plan on building a few battery boxes in a case with 12v or 24v option on a switch. And have a charging input, all with a nice face plate.
Slowed down on this during the holidays but will get going again soon. I'll post pics when done.
Chuck

[fireTEK]

I ordered two and a charger. I would rather run it at 24 volt to have more power than needed. That comment you made about the pulse duration. Last we talked I believe you said your system can adjust the voltage duration for an electric match or Talon (Consumer Igniter) automatically. There is no need to make adjustments. That is impressive.
To split the CAT6 cable , will RJ45 CAT 5 6 LAN Ethernet Splitter be proper?
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http://cdn1.tmart.hk/prodimgs_v2/C/C005/0/C0050/RJ45-Cat-5-6-Ethernet-Splitter-Connector-Adapter_320x320.jpg


You can use that splitters but you need to check after you receive the quality of them because I bought some with problems: the wires are not so flexible like it should be and make a short when connect cables.

[fireTEK]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksyNPRl-zSY&feature=youtu.be


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82FCIH2b2U&feature=youtu.be


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=506PHPVDJC8&feature=youtu.be

[Dmkaz]

After coming across FireTek on the forums here, I decided to take the plunge as I really liked the use of rails without funky parallel connectors. I went with the ‘backyard’ module as well as I don’t have a need for the professional one.

I shot my NYE show with it using Bluetooth and the Android App and it went flawless. The Bluetooth range is limited, but that’s Bluetooth for ya. Show was shot in cold, damp Indiana weather and all cues worked without issue using both Talon clips and ematch. I used standard ~100ft cat6 cable for each rail.

I ended up using LiPo batteries to power it. I went with a pair of 3S 30C batteries, wired in series to get to a healthy ~22.7v. I like LiPo’s for this use case because of their ridiculously high peak discharge rate. I probably went a bit overkill with 30C batteries (reference to their peak discharge rate), but cost from 20C was nominal. You could go with a single 6S to get to 22v, but I like the redundancy of two batteries and 6S chargers tend to be much more expensive. Picture below showing my setup.

Overall extremely happy with the system and look forward to getting another module and remote. Even it’s the ‘backyard’ version, it’s very well built and very clear and easy to use. Shout out to Laurian to the great support with it!

861

[displayfireworks1]

Thank you for joining the forums and commenting. When I looked at the LiPo batteries initially I thought I would have to cut the plugs and improvise jumper connections to make 24 volts. Can you please tell us about the jumper setup you have pictured. Do they sell these jumper plugs? Did you create this jumper plug setup?

[Dmkaz]

Dave - First of all I wanted to thank you for the videos and help getting my ATF license last year. I've watched your videos for years and finally decided to go for it last May and ordered your set.

For the jumper setup - It's a standard 'Y' series adapter (~$8). I bought mine from a local Hobby Store that sells Horizon Hobby products, but the connectors on the LiPo's are universal and could make your own if you had some wire and then they sell the plug-ends by themselves. I then bought a plug-end broke out to pigtails (~$4) that I connected to the FireTek power plug.

Since LiPo 3S batteries are ~11.1V/ea, putting them in series 'adds' the output voltage. I get a healthy ~22.7v wired this way. You *could* go with a LiPo 6S battery which has an output voltage of already ~22.5v, but they're more expensive, chargers tend to be more expensive (my DynTek only does up to a 3S battery for example) and I just like having the redundancy of two batteries as I could still fire the show if one wasn't fully charged.

[Dmkaz]

Wanted to add that these are 'EC3' connectors.

The device connector I used: http://www.horizonhobby.com/ec3-device-connector-with-4-wire--16-awg-eflaec309

The series harness used: http://www.horizonhobby.com/ec3-battery-series-harness--13-awg-eflaec308

You can also buy plain 'plug-ends' if you want to make your own: http://www.horizonhobby.com/ec3-device---battery-connector-eflaec303

And for reference the batteries: http://www.horizonhobby.com/EFLB22003S30

[displayfireworks1]

That is great it should help some of us that want to use these batteries. The best choice is probably these types of batteries. They appear small, it looks like the listed dimensions are (LxWxH) 4.10 x 1.33 x 0.95" (104 x 34 x 24 mm). That is great news on getting the ATF Fireworks License. Now you are advancing into high tech fireworks firing systems. Not sure how many of these compact units are in United States so it is nice to get your feedback.

[fireTEK]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmWnFfWsAN0&feature=youtu.be

[displayfireworks1]

First day on the job and involved in an accident. LOL This is an unlisted video from my recent shoot in the cold February weather. While firing a 10 inch shell the FireTEK and batteries were the victim of a flying 10 inch mortar.As far as I can tell the module survived the attack.
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Unlisted Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g6ug7WKP3U

[displayfireworks1]

Here is a slowed down video of the 10 inch shell firing. As far as I can see from the video the mortar did not go into the air. I wonder if it just went top heavy and fell out of the loop when the strap broke free from the gate?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSqYFvqU6lA

[displayfireworks1]

Here is the public viewing video I just released on YouTube.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ukml0D5J084

[Northern Sky]

My first thought, it 10 inch mortars and be burred, let's tie them to a wire mesh trailer. . . . . NOT.

Who's BRILLIANT idea was this.

Equal and opposite force people. If a 3" shell fires through a 3/4" piece of plywood, what will a 10" shell do.

Wake Up.

Didn't anybody at least have the sense to have the bottom of the mortar on the FROZEN GROUND.

Come on guys.

I would imagine all three mortars are trashed after that abuse.

:confused:

[displayfireworks1]

I guess you have to shoot a fireworks display in two degree weather with all volunteer help and a late start to understand it all. My pyrotechnic world is not always pretty and its not always safe. I probably had more close calls than most. It is what it is for me. When the backhoe did not start we could have not used the larger shells, but that was not going to happen. You don't buy these large shells not to see them. You are correct the next choice was to set the mortar on the frozen ground and strap it against the trailer. These large mortars need buried, that is the proper way. Large sand boxes are also proper. What we did with the 8 and 10 inch shells on that trailer was wrong.

[Northern Sky]

Shit happens. It's what we do in the planning stages and how we roll with adversity that matters in the end.

[fireTEK]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBBDd3IL7Jk&feature=youtu.be

[displayfireworks1]

Hey, how come I didn't get that one. LOL Just joking, I like the addition of the red light when the system is armed. I think that is a great idea. Is the audible sound adjustable to turn it down or off.

[fireTEK]

Hey, how come I didn't get that one. LOL Just joking, I like the addition of the red light when the system is armed. I think that is a great idea. Is the audible sound adjustable to turn it down or off.

Yes... the sound can be only turned ON/OFF... you can not adjust the volume level. The beeps need some adjustments... anyway.

[displayfireworks1]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dc1a8Hq7nwo&feature=youtu.be
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Copy and Paste from email
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After seeing your video I'm playing with the Chinese stuff and have been putting it through a barrage of tests. I also want a bigger and better system - I'm hooked! With Fire One being out of my price range I've been thinking a lot of the Merlock system. It's got two wire data between modules. The Merlock modules with attached cues are about 250 bucks cheaper than the F1 modules alone and with the F1 modules you still have to connect them to slats. If you don't want to connect your e-match directly to the Merlock modules you can also plug in a Magic Fire rail / slat to the module and connect your e-matches to that. Dave, I think I'm going to spend a few thousand on the Merlock system. Can't wait to see if we can use F1 scripts on it with little modification. :) Do you know anyone that's been using this system? Any pros and cons you can tell me about?

[fireTEK]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dc1a8Hq7nwo&feature=youtu.be
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Copy and Paste from email
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After seeing your video I'm playing with the Chinese stuff and have been putting it through a barrage of tests. I also want a bigger and better system - I'm hooked! With Fire One being out of my price range I've been thinking a lot of the Merlock system. It's got two wire data between modules. The Merlock modules with attached cues are about 250 bucks cheaper than the F1 modules alone and with the F1 modules you still have to connect them to slats. If you don't want to connect your e-match directly to the Merlock modules you can also plug in a Magic Fire rail / slat to the module and connect your e-matches to that. Dave, I think I'm going to spend a few thousand on the Merlock system. Can't wait to see if we can use F1 scripts on it with little modification. :) Do you know anyone that's been using this system? Any pros and cons you can tell me about?


Thank you Dave.

Why fireTEK?
It has similar features with Fireone and other professional firing systems plus some innovative features which can not be find on any other firing system from the market at prices starts from $11/ cue to $30.
Here some of the fireTEK features:
- Wireless mesh network with up to 18 miles range (any firing module act as a repeater)
- 2 wire bidirectional communication (except FTH-48E firing module)
- 1ms steps with up to 10ns accuracy (0.000000010 seconds) using GPS on all firing modules and the controller.
- fire up to 15 igniters in parallel and up to 30 in series on the same channel
- The most flexible system from the market which can be used in many modes, with or without a special controller. Firing modules can be controlled using an FTM-99S via wireless and/or wired, other firing module, Computer via USB, Smartphone via Bluetooth, External music player via Time code, Time trigger via GPS, Panel buttons, Small remote, External trigger or combinations
- All the scripts are saved direct into the firing modules.
- To avoid human errors, safe and fully automated real time tests require no user intervention. Any errors found are displayed on one screen as soon as they occur.
- Ensures firing capability by monitoring in real time the current that passes through the igniters for fully automated firing pulse duration.
- Internal 24V rechargeable battery (on FTH-48S firing module)
- Time code and Internal player for FTM-99S controller for music synchronization
- Easy to split and connect rails
- We offer free software and we can import direct to our system from: FinaleFireworks, ShowDirector, ShowSim. Also we can help you to import any other format.

[displayfireworks1]

My daughter has an older Samsung Galaxy phone. She used it to fire a few E-match on the FireTEK Compact. Your Android phone can also be used as a remote on this system using Bluetooth. She sent me a screen shot of her phone
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http://pyrotalk.com/wp-photos/wp-content/gallery/united-states-pennsylvania/screenshot_2016-02-22-20-24-17-78e75b03c64d6c34a11555d3bef7c36857c078fa.png

[fireTEK]

My daughter has an older Samsung Galaxy phone. She used it to fire a few E-match on the FireTEK Compact. Your Android phone can also be used as a remote on this system using Bluetooth. She sent me a screen shot of her phone
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http://pyrotalk.com/wp-photos/wp-content/gallery/united-states-pennsylvania/screenshot_2016-02-22-20-24-17-78e75b03c64d6c34a11555d3bef7c36857c078fa.png

It seems the applicaiton not to fit well in the screen and some icons (04, 05, 06) does not look lime it should... I think the Android version and resolution of the smartphone it is the problem.

[displayfireworks1]

It is a older Galaxy phone. She wanted to try the software to fire a few electric match. I am going to be working with someone that has a tablet and newer phone soon. We were just testing out the software on her phone.

[displayfireworks1]

Here is a short clip of the FireTEK from our recent shoot in the cold. I left it out most of the day, prior to the shoot the temperature was between 2 and 10 degrees Fahrenheit. It held up well in the extreme cold.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zL10_FQVGHs

[fireTEK]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlIKjwr4ULg&feature=youtu.be

[Dmkaz]

For my FTH-48E, I wanted a solid case for it so I got a bit creative with a Pelican 1400 case. Everything fits snug and is fully functional.

1007

[fireTEK]

Sequence fire using external trigger:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ouqC2No4nA&feature=youtu.be

[Pyropug]

For my FTH-48E, I wanted a solid case for it so I got a bit creative with a Pelican 1400 case. Everything fits snug and is fully functional.

1007

looks great, I had the same idea just haven't decided what size case to get

[Dmkaz]

looks great, I had the same idea just haven't decided what size case to get

I initially bought a Pelican 1200 and it *just* wasn't big enough to be functional. The piece would fit, but you wouldn't have access to any of the ports unless you pulled it out. I found that the 1400 was a perfect fit (although a *tad* deep) for the module, plenty of room for access, as well as the 2x 30C LiPo batteries I use.

[Pyropug]

Are you putting the batteries in a series? I went with a pulse 22.2 volt 1800 mah, I hope 1800 mah is enough though. Firetek and motarsupply said 1300 would be enough with 100' x4 cables

[Dmkaz]

Are you putting the batteries in a series? I went with a pulse 22.2 volt 1800 mah, I hope 1800 mah is enough though

Batteries are in series. They're 2x 3S, 30C LiPo's. I like having the redundancy of two batteries in case one happens to not be fully charged and my charger won't do 6S. For a single show, 1800mah should be enough. If you do lots of series cues or split the slats out, I'd perhaps bumping the amperage up a bit.